Crab Bisque

Make the blonde roux: Melt the butter in a Dutch oven or large, heavy skillet over medium. Sprinkle in the flour and whisk vigorously until the mixture is bubbling. Reduce the heat to low and continue whisking until the roux emits a nutty aroma and is the color of light khaki, about 5 minutes total.

Add the onion along with a generous pinch of salt and increase the heat to medium. Stir frequently with a wooden spoon until the onion softens (about 5 minutes), ensuring that onion bits covered in roux do not stick to the bottom of the Dutch oven. Add the celery and continue stirring until softened, about 5 minutes.

Use the spoon to clear some space, and add the tomato paste; stir frequently until it caramelizes and emits a sweet aroma, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the white wine and use the wooden spoon to scrape up any bits that are stuck to the bottom. Stir in the seafood stock, Old Bay seasoning, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon black pepper, pinch of ground cayenne (if using), thyme sprigs and bay leaves and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium low. Cook at a low simmer, uncovered, 45 minutes. After 15 minutes, remove the crab from the refrigerator so the meat will come to room temperature.

Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Use an immersion blender to purée the soup. (Alternatively, purée the soup in batches in a blender and return to the Dutch oven.) Over low heat, stir in the heavy cream and heat through (do not let the bisque boil).

To serve, ladle the bisque into bowls. Divide the crab meat among the bowls and top with parsley and cracked black pepper.